The Kitchen Scholar explores the world of food and cooking beyond the levels of nourishment and sensory pleasure by intersecting with different stories that range from personal narratives to third-party perspectives in different academic fields and by promoting the legacy of culinary traditions and cookbook authors.

MAASEMS (FATIMA'S FINGERS)

MAASEMS (FATIMA'S FINGERS)

SOURCE: PAULA WOLFERT. MEDITERRANEAN COOKING.

Ramadan fasting in the Maghreb concludes with a bite of delectable golden tubular pastries the French regime in Tunisia had once attributed to the esteemed daughter of the prophet Muhammad. How the French arrived at Doigts de Fatma might have been a reimagined homage to her thin and delicate fingers or perhaps even a mystical callback to the protective powers the palm-shaped tafust or Hand of Fatima provides the talisman bearer against misfortunes and negativities. By tradition, Tunisians use malsouka for wrappers, thus ending up with a chewier pastry crust from deep-frying. For a crispier preference, Greek phyllos or Moroccan warqas are also feasible substitute wrappers.

Ingredients

3/4 cup/180 grams finely chopped cooked chicken breast

1/3 cup/20 grams finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, preferably picked fresh on the same day for best results

2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and finely chopped

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 1/2 tablespoons/10 grams Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 phyllo dough sheets

1 egg white, lightly beaten to a froth

Olive oil for frying

Lemon quarters for garnish

Specific Equipment

Mixing bowl

Plastic wrap

Pastry cutter

Pastry brush

Deep-bottomed skillet

Paper towels

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

1. Stir the chicken, parsley, eggs, and cheese in a mixing bowl until well-blended and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside in a refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

2. Unroll one of the phyllo sheets; divide into 4 equal 5-inch/13-cm-wide quarters crosswise with a pastry cutter, and fold each quarter in half.

3. Brush the edges of each phyllo sheet with the egg white using a pastry brush. Place a tablespoonful of the chicken mixture on the bottom of each phyllo sheet, leaving a 1-inch/2-cm margin on all sides side. Fold the bottom of each phyllo sheet over and roll over again. Press both ends to tightly seal each pastry. Brush the top with oil to prevent pastry from drying out. Each pastry measures about 5 inch/13 cm × 1 inch/2.5 cm.

4. Heat olive oil in a deep-bottomed skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Transfer each pastry carefully into the pan by holding its two ends and letting the center drop first into the hot oil. Fry one side for 2 to 3 minutes or until the phyllo turns golden brown and crispy. Flip the pastry over the other side and fry for 1 to 2 minutes or until golden brown. Remove the pastry from the skillet and place them on paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining pastries.

5. Transfer the pastries to a serving plate and serve them with lemon quarters.

HARISSA

HARISSA

YUNNANESE GRANDMA'S POTATOES

YUNNANESE GRANDMA'S POTATOES