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HARISSA

HARISSA

SOURCE: ARTO DER HAROUTUNIAN. NORTH AFRICAN COOKERY.

Red peppers pervaded Tunisian gastronomy in the early 16th century when Spain, at the height of its power and ambitions of global conquest, seized control of Tunis from the Ottoman sultanate in 1535 and introduced the guajillo chiles of Mesoamerica. Who would have then anticipated that an earthy paste of roasted peppers could dictate the future of Tunisian flavors within those four decades of foreign occupation and beyond? The fundamental heat, ranging between 4000 and 5000 Scoville units, from sparing quantities of Harissa gives every savory Tunisian dish its distinctly bonafide character that is virtually undetectable from similar Moroccan and Algerian counterparts. Every Tunisian household in the north of the Sahara desert makes their own Harissa from Baklouti peppers, with the exception of affluent families having their versions diluted with tomato purée and olive oil for a brighter shade of red. That said, Harissa also needs the trinity of garlic, coriander, and caraway as universal additives to its smoky fragrance. Use Harissa to bring brightness to broths like fish-based soups or to add piquancy to sweet root vegetables such as carrots.

Ingredients

1 1/2 cup/225 grams dried hot chili peppers, preferably Baklouti OR Guajillo peppers

1 1/2 tablespoons/14 grams garlic cloves

1 tablespoon/5 grams ground coriander

1 teaspoon/2 grams ground caraway seeds

1 tablespoon/18 grams salt

Specific Equipment

Nonreactive bowl

Strainer

Food processor

Glass jar with a tight seal

Makes 2 cups/480 mL

Instructions

1. Cut the chili peppers in half and remove the seeds and stalks. Soak the chili pepper halves in a nonreactive bowl of water for 30 minutes or until the chili peppers are swollen and soft. Drain the chili peppers over a strainer, squeezing out excess moisture.

2. Purée the chili peppers, garlic and 1/4 cup/60 mL water in a food processor for 2 to 3 minutes or until the paste is well-blended and smooth. Season the mixture with coriander, caraway, and salt and pulse for 30 seconds or until well-blended.

3. Pour the mixture into a glass jar and seal the jar tightly. Refrigerate until further use.

SHRIMPS KERKENNAISE

SHRIMPS KERKENNAISE

MAASEMS (FATIMA'S FINGERS)

MAASEMS (FATIMA'S FINGERS)