The Kitchen Scholar explores the world of food and cooking beyond the levels of nourishment and sensory pleasure by intersecting with different stories that range from personal narratives to third-party perspectives in different academic fields and by promoting the legacy of culinary traditions and cookbook authors.

YOYOS (TUNISIAN HONEY-DIPPED ORANGE DOUGHNUTS)

YOYOS (TUNISIAN HONEY-DIPPED ORANGE DOUGHNUTS)

SOURCE: COPELAND MARKS. THE GREAT BOOK OF COUSCOUS: CLASSIC CUISINES OF MOROCCO, ALGERIA, AND TUNISIA.

Orange-glazed doughnuts show up prominently on festive Tunisian tables regardless of religious denomination. Pious Maghrebi Jews insist on respectively fitting the deep-fried golden pastries and their sweet syrupy dip with the miraculous narrative of the burning lamp oil that fueled Hanukkah and the hopeful message of survival and deliverance that inspired Purim. For devoted practitioners of Islam, the irresistible presence of these delicacies herald the end of the monthlong Ramadan season and pave the way for Eid al-Fitr. On a regular day, Tunisian pastry shops sell them to go along with a morning cup of Arabic coffee or an afternoon cup of mint tea with pine nuts.

Ingredients

Doughnuts

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons/25 grams sugar

2 tablespoons/30 mL corn oil or olive oil

1/2 teaspoon/2 grams baking powder

2 cups/240 grams all-purpose flour plus more for dusting

Grated zest of 1 orange

1/2 teaspoon/3 mL orange blossom water

Olive oil for deep-frying

Orange Honey Dip

1 cup/200 grams sugar

1/3 cup/80 mL freshly squeezed orange juice

1/4 teaspoon/1 mL orange blossom water

1/8 teaspoon/0.6 mL pure vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste

1/4 teaspoon/0.6 grams cornstarch OR arrowroot dissolved in 2 tablespoons/30 mL water

Specific Equipment

Mixing bowl

Wooden spoon

Rolling pin

Well-floured pastry board

Doughnut cutter with a diameter of 3 inches/7.6 cm

Medium frying pan

Paper towels

Small saucepan

Toothpick or metal skewer

Fork or chopsticks

Wire rack set over a tray

Makes 10 to 12 doughnuts

Instructions

1. Stir the eggs, sugar, olive oil, baking powder, flour, orange zest, and orange blossom water in a large mixing bowl with a wooden spoon until well-blended and the dough is pliable and elastic. If the dough is still moist, stir in more flour until the dough is manageable but not dry.

2. Transfer the dough on a well-floured pastry board or surface and roll to a thickness of 1/2 inch/1.27 cm. Cut the dough into flat 3-inch/7.6-cm rounds with a doughnut cutter. Set the doughnuts aside.

3. Heat the olive oil in a medium frying pan set over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Reduce the heat to a simmer under low heat and drop the doughnuts in batches of 3 or 4. Deep-fry the doughnuts for 2 to 3 minutes, turning them midway, or until the doughnuts float onto the surface and have turned golden brown on both sides. Remove the doughnuts from the frying pan and set over paper towels to drain.

4. Stir the sugar, orange juice, orange blossom water, and vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste in a small saucepan and cover with enough water. Set the saucepan over low heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has thickened slightly into a light syrup. Stir in the cornstarch or arrowroot mixture until well-blended. Remove from heat and keep the dip warm.

5. Pierce several holes on both sides of each doughnut and plunge them, one by one, into the warm dip. Remove each doughnut from the dip with a fork or chopsticks and place the doughnuts on a wire rack set over a tray to drain excess syrup. Cool the doughnuts to room temperature for at least 1 hour to air-dry before transferring them to a serving plate.

BROUDOU BIL HOUT (TUNISIAN FISH AND VEGETABLE SOUP)

BROUDOU BIL HOUT (TUNISIAN FISH AND VEGETABLE SOUP)

MZOURA (HARISSA-SPICED CARROTS)

MZOURA (HARISSA-SPICED CARROTS)