VELVET SHRIMP

SOURCE: CRAIG CLAIBORNE AND VIRGINIA LEE. THE CHINESE COOKBOOK.

Literally translated as “passing through the oil”, velveting or guoyou is a two-step treatment found in the entire spectrum of Chinese cooking and, by extension, Chinese restaurants. The first step entails coating the raw shrimp, fish, chicken, or meat thoroughly in a flavored marinade of egg whites and cornstarch to allow the alkalinity of egg whites to tenderize the flesh. The second step is a brief exposure to sudden but simmering heat so the thermal shock forces the network of carbohydrates in the cornstarch to form a smooth protective membrane that quickly seals in the juices. As velveted pieces further pass through the blazing extremities of stir-frying or steaming temperatures, the coating progresses to a silky quality, thus bestowing the namesake texture.

Ingredients

10.5 ounces/300 grams medium raw shrimp, peeled

1 1/2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons/16 grams cornstarch

1 cup/240 mL chicken broth

8 egg whites

1/2 teaspoon/2 grams granulated sugar

1 teaspoon/6 grams salt

2 tablespoons/30 mL rice wine, preferably Shaoxing/Shao Hsing wine

OPTIONAL: 1/4 teaspoon/1 gram monosodium glutamate

2 tablespoons/30 mL water

2 cups/480 mL peanut, vegetable, OR corn oil

OPTIONAL: 6 ounces/170 grams button mushrooms, canned or fresh, sliced into quarters

1/2 cup/180 grams peas, fresh OR frozen

1/4 cup/40 grams ham, finely chopped almost to a powder for garnish

OPTIONAL: Finely chopped parsley or scallions for garnish

Specific Equipment

Paring knife

Paper towels

Plastic wrap

Meat mallet OR heavy skillet

3 bowls, preferably 2 small bowls and 1 large mixing bowl

Chopsticks

Colander

Chinese wok

Slotted ladle

Nonreactive container for saving the reserved oil

Serves 6 to 8

Instructions

1. Split the shrimps in half with a paring knife and rinse them with running water to remove the dark vein down the back. Pat the shrimps dry with a paper towel and place them, a few at a time, on a flat clean surface. Cover each batch of shrimps with a sheet of plastic wrap and pound gently to a pulp with the mallet or the bottom of the heavy skillet. Reuse the sheet of plastic wrap for each batch and replace with a fresh sheet only when torn from continuous pounding.

2. Put 1 1/2 tablespoons/11 grams cornstarch into a small bowl and gradually blend in 2/3 cup/160 mL chicken broth or until the cornstarch completely dissolves.

3. Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl and stir in the shrimp pulp with chopsticks until smooth and combined. Pour the chicken broth-cornstarch mixture, and stir in the sugar, salt and 1 tablespoon/15 mL rice wine. Add the monosodium glutamate, if desired. Continue stirring with chopsticks until all shrimps are completely coated. Refrigerate the shrimp and the velveting marinade for 30 minutes.

4. Line the colander with paper towels. This setup will receive the shrimp when it is cooked and absorb the oil.

5. Combine 2 teaspoons/5 grams cornstarch with water until the cornstarch completely dissolves and set aside.

6. Heat the oil in a wok until it is hot and almost smoking. Turn off the heat. Wait for 10 seconds, then pour in the shrimp mixture. Turn the heat on immediately, and stir quickly and gently with a slotted ladle, using a folding motion to bring the bottom to the top, until the shrimps turn white and curl up. Scoop the shrimp out of the wok and drain into the colander lined with paper towels.

7. Pour off the oil from the pan, leaving behind 2 tablespoons/30 mL. Reserve the rest in a nonreactive container for another frying.

8. Sauté the mushrooms in the oil until brown, if desired. Add 1 tablespoon/15 mL rice wine and cook, stirring about 20 seconds, then add the peas. Return the shrimp to the wok, and add 1/3 cup/80 mL chicken broth. Stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook until slightly thick.

9. Spoon the velvet onto a serving platter and garnish with ham. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or scallions, if desired.