TKEMALI (GEORGIAN SOUR PLUM SAUCE)

SOURCE: DARRA GOLDSTEIN. THE GEORGIAN FEAST: THE VIBRANT CULTURE AND SAVORY FOOD OF THE REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA.

When matters of spicy taste become culturally divisive, Occidental Georgians prefer fresh and cool sensations while Oriental Georgians favor sharp and hot nuances. What settles these regional differences into national reconciliation and unity is their collective love for the condiment, Tkemali. Made from a purée of tart plums and jazzed up by the leaves of ombalo, also known as pennyroyal or Mentha pulegium, a musty flowering member of the mint family, Tkemali invigorates the mundane taste of any grilled meat, poultry, fish, or vegetable, and provocatively teases the palate. Likewise, it vitally adds fruity zings to soup and stew broths when plums are seasonally scarce. Due to the rarity and, most importantly, the potential liver toxicity of pennyroyal, which Georgian cooks have adeptly eyeballed for their authentic Tkemali, spearmint or peppermint leaves can work as viable substitutes for the ordinary home kitchen.

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds/680 grams sour plums, preferably Santa Rosa cultivars OR a mix of red and yellow plums

1/4 cup/60 mL water

3/4 teaspoon/1 gram whole coriander seeds

1 teaspoon/2 grams whole fennel seed

2 large garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

1 teaspoon/2 grams cayenne pepper OR hot Hungarian paprika

1 teaspoon/3 grams salt

1 tablespoon/2 grams finely minced spearmint OR peppermint leaves, preferably picked fresh on the same day for best results

1/3 cup/20 grams finely minced cilantro or coriander

Specific Equipment

Saucepan

Mortar and pestle

Food mill or food processor

Glass jar with a tight seal

Makes about 2 cups/500 mL

Instructions

1. Cut and pit out the plums. Place the pitted plums in a saucepan. Pour water into the saucepan and bring to a boil.

2. Reduce the heat to moderate low and continue simmering the plums inside the covered saucepan for 15 minutes or until they soften to a pulp. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. Combine the coriander seeds, fennel seeds, garlic clove, cayenne pepper or Hungarian paprika, and salt in a mortar and pestle. Grind everything into a fine paste.

4. Mash the plum pulp to a purée through a food mill or in a food processor. Pour the purée back to the saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat while constantly stirring for 3 minutes.

5. Mix in the fine paste of ground spices and garlic. Continue stirring for 5 minutes or until well blended and the mixture thickens slightly. Add the chopped mint and cilantro leaves and stir for another 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

6. Pour the mixture into a glass jar and cool to room temperature. Seal the jar tightly and refrigerate until further use.