WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO

SOURCE: JULIA CHILD. COOKING WITH MASTER CHEFS.

Italian rice and wild mushrooms represent the two opposite faces of a perfect risotto coin. The former needs human intervention in wet open fields, while the latter flourishes carefree in arboreal ecosystems as either symbiotes of living tree hosts or digestives of decaying tree trunks. Despite their biological and ecological differences, both ingredients enter the kitchen, perfectly compatible for marrying into the hearty bliss of a risotto. The gastronomic union in a Wild Mushroom Risotto is mutual with the rice providing a smooth and creamy base for the absorption and retention of the strong meaty flavor imparted by the mushrooms, the most popular and accessible being porcini mushrooms (or cèpes). However, having other wild mushrooms, such as morels, chanterelles, and oyster mushrooms, will not hurt the faithful monogamy and makes the overall taste and aroma all the more interesting without harboring any scrupulous guilt.

Ingredients

1/4 cup/10 grams dry porcinis or cèpes

6 1/2 cups/1600 mL hot chicken stock, preferably homemade

12 ounces/350 grams assorted fresh wild mushrooms, such as porcinis or cèpes, cremini, baby portobellos,. shiitakes, chanterelles, morels, oyster mushrooms, lobster mushrooms, and hen-of-the-woods

5 tablespoons/75 mL extra virgin olive oil

Salt

1 cup/150 grams finely chopped onions

2 tablespoons/13 grams finely chopped shallots

2 cups/450 grams Arborio or Carnaroli rice

1 cup/240 mL dry white wine

2-4 tablespoons/30-60 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 cup/100 grams freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Specific Equipment

Large saucepan for the hot chicken stock

Soup ladle to scoop out the hot chicken stock from the saucepan

Large and heavy skillet

Wooden spoon or spatula to stir the risotto

Serves 6

Instructions

1. Rinse the dry porcini mushrooms or cèpes in cold running water, and infuse them in 1/2 cup/120 mL hot chicken stock for 20 minutes and set aside.

2. Trim the fresh wild mushrooms by discarding their tough woody parts and damaged sections. Wash briefly in cold running water; pat try with paper towels, and cut immediately into lengthwise slices to keep the mushrooms from getting soggy and slimy after washing.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons/30 mL olive oil in a large skillet until hot, and toss in the wild mushrooms. Season lightly with salt, and sauté for 5 minutes or more to remove the moisture from the mushrooms and concentrate their flavors. Deglaze the skillet with 1/2 cup/125 mL hot chicken stock, and set both aside. Wipe the skillet dry.

4. Pour in 3 tablespoons/45 mL olive oil to the skillet and set in medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the chopped onions, and sauté while frequently stirring for 5 minutes or until the onions are translucent and soft but not brown. Add in the chopped shallots and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Stir the Arborio or Carnaroli rice into the onions and shallots. Set the heat to moderately high, and toast the rice grains by stirring slowly until they turn golden and dry and make a soft clicking sound. Pour the wine into the rice, and boil it down until the rice is almost dry.

6. Ladle in 1 1/2 cup/375 mL hot chicken stock to barely cover the rice, and quickly lower the heat to medium to keep the stock constantly simmering. Season with salt to taste. Stir the rice slowly, and cook for 8 minutes. Make sure to replenish the rice with the a cupful of hot chicken stock to prevent the rice from drying up and sticking into the bottom and sides of the skillet.

7. Stir in the sautéed wild mushrooms and its deglazing juices to the risotto. Remove the soaked porcini mushrooms or cèpes; squeeze their juices into the risotto; chop finely, and stir into the risotto. Pour the soaking juices into the risotto, being careful not to include the sediments that settled at the bottom of the juices.

8. Continue cooking the risotto for 15 to 20 minutes while constantly stirring in cupfuls of the hot chicken stock to the skillet until the entire stock is completely incorporated into the risotto. The risotto is done when the rice grains have doubled in size from absorbing the chicken stock and mushroom juices, suspend in a smooth creamy liquid, and taste tender with a slight resistance to the bite.

9. Remove from heat, and stir in the butter and 1/2 cup/50 grams freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to blend well. Season with freshly ground black pepper to taste, and transfer to a serving platter before sprinkling the risotto with a handful of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Serve separately with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.