TÔM KHO (VIETNAMESE CARAMEL BRAISED SHRIMPS)

SOURCE: ANDREA NGUYEN. INTO THE VIETNAMESE KITCHEN: TREASURED FOODWAYS, MODERN FLAVORS.

The Vietnamese technique of kho literally translates to “braising” or “simmering”, but the mandatory element that specifically sets the term apart from the general denotation is the presence of a dark and bittersweet caramel sauce seasoned with the robust salty overtones of fermented fish sauce. A tandem coat of caramel and fish sauce preserves any cooked protein from spoilage for days even under humid conditions, a highly convenient and economical trick Viet cooks had completely perfected long before the idea and technology of refrigeration entered and earned acceptance in the tropical country. Applying kho to shrimps, however, inevitably results in overdone and rubbery tails, which, at first glance, violates every fundamental orthodoxy of seafood cookery. In actuality, overcooking is necessary and intentional to osmotically season the shrimps with the flavors of the sauce in exchange for the latter to slowly release its sweet juices into the former.

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds/700 grams fresh or frozen medium or large shrimps, peeled and deveined

Salt

2 tablespoons/12 grams granulated sugar dissolved in 1 1/2 tablespoons/23 mL water

1 1/2 tablespoons/23 mL fish sauce, preferably nuớc mắm

1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

Freshy ground black pepper to taste

1 1/2 tablespoons/23 mL canola or peanut oil

Chopped scallions or chives for garnish

Specific Equipment

Colander

Small clay pot equipped with a lid

Serves 4

Instructions

1. Toss the shrimp with a liberal amount of salt in a colander. Rinse thoroughly with cold water and drain well. Omit this step, if using fresh shrimps. Set aside.

2. Bring the sugar-water mixture to a boil in a clay pot over medium-high heat. Remove the clay pot immediately from heat when the sugar-water mixture changes to a pale amber color. The clear syrup will continue to darken in color due to the heat absorbed by the clay pot as it cools slightly for several minutes. When the sauce eventually browns to the same color as molasses, transfer the clay pot to a bath of tap water to stop the cooking. Stir in the fish sauce and 1 tablespoon/15 mL water to deglaze the clay pot.

3. Toss in the shrimp to the clay pot to coat with the caramel sauce and fish sauce and season lightly with salt.

4. Return the clay pot to the stovetop and bring to a vigorous simmer over high heat. Stir in the onions and season with freshly ground black pepper until well-blended. Cook the shrimps for 5 to 7 minutes or until the shrimps have turned orange-brown and curled to release their juices and the sauce has turned mahogany in color. If the pan begins to appear dry, splash in a few tablespoonfuls of water.

5. Remove the clay pot from heat and stir in the oil to coat the shrimp. Adjust the seasoning by sprinkling in more freshly ground black pepper according to taste. Sprinkle the chopped scallions over the shrimps before serving.