SPICE-CRUSTED DUCK BREAST WITH CREAMY POLENTA LA CANTINE DU TROQUET

SOURCE: JANE SIGAL. BISTRONOMY: RECIPES FROM THE BEST NEW PARIS BISTROS.

Winning the majority vote for Bistro of the Year from Pudlo Guide readers in 1998 eventually led to Le Troquet spinning off a similarly named canteen franchise of five walk-in scarlet brasseries around Paris that showcase the modesty, homely generosity, and top-notch ingredients of French Basque cooking from chef proprietor Christian Etchebest. In the case of the beloved Pyrenean protein staple, magret de canard, Christian rubs the breast with a roasted blend of Indian spices and juniper berries which scorch to a beautiful crusty char when seared onto the blazing hot iron surface. When the duck reaches its desired endpoint, he nests the slices over a cheesy bed of polenta so the deep flavorful poultry juices that render out during resting seep into the starchy accompaniment. Finally, a dusting of Christian’s favorite ingredient, piment d’Espelette, brings out his smoky bistronomic trademark.

Ingredients

1/2 teaspoon/1 gram black cardamom seeds

1/2 teaspoon/1 gram cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon/1 gram juniper berries

1/2 teaspoon/1 gram Madras curry powder

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 duck breasts, weighing about 12 ounces/340 grams each

2 cups/480 mL chicken stock, preferably homemade

1/4 cup/40 grams fine OR instant polenta

1/3 cup/80 mL heavy cream

1/2 cup/60 grams finely grated Gruyère cheese

Fleur de sel for garnish

Piment d’Espelette OR smoked paprika for garnish

Specific Equipment

Small skillet

Spice mill OR mortar and pestle

Paring knife

Medium skillet

Cutting board

Medium saucepan

Spatula OR wire whisk

Sharp knife

Serves 4

Instructions

1. Toast the cardamom, cumin, and juniper in a small skillet set over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, occasionally shaking the skillet, or until they have released their fragrance.

2. Transfer the spice mixture into a spice mill or mortar and pestle and cool to lukewarm. Grind the spice mixture into a fine powder. Stir in the Madras curry powder until well-blended and set aside.

3. Score the skin of the duck breasts lightly with a paring knife, making small crosshatch patterns. Season both sides of the duck breasts with salt and pepper and rub the spice mixture all over. Set aside for 30 minutes or refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours.

4. Set a medium skillet over moderate heat and sear in the duck breasts skin-side down for 15 to 20 minutes, basting the breast with the rendered fat, or until the skin has deeply browned. Turn the breasts over and sear for 5 minutes or until the duck is medium-rare. Remove the skillet from heat and transfer the duck breasts onto a cutting board, skin side down to rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

5. Bring the chicken stock in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the polenta with a spatula or wire whisk gradually and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer for 3 minutes, constantly stirring, or until the polenta has thickened.

6. Remove the saucepan from heat and stir in the cream, cheese, and butter until well-blended. Season the polenta with salt and pepper, adjusting the amounts according to taste. Spoon the polenta into individual serving plate and keep warm.

7. Slice the duck breasts crosswise at a thickness of 1/4 inch/0.63 cm with a sharp knife and top the duck slices over the polenta. Drizzle over the duck juices from the cutting board and sprinkle lightly with fleur de sel and piment d’Espelette or smoked paprika for garnish.