SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA (CHARCOAL MAKER-STYLE SPAGHETTI)

May 23

May 23 SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA (CHARCOAL MAKER-STYLE SPAGHETTI)

The Kitchen Scholar

Starches and Grains

SOURCE: GIULIANO BUGIALLI. THE FINE ART OF ITALIAN COOKING.

Farmers based in the uplands of Lazio and Abruzzo barely made ends meet just from their livelihood alone, so they earned their extra income by moonlighting as artisanal charcoal suppliers to blacksmiths, coppersmiths, and restaurants. The craft of charcoal making is a three-day insomniac ritual held in the deep forest that involves the *carbonaio* blazing an upright stack of logs buried under sod and weeds. This setup allows the flames to burn inwardly and facilitates the anaerobic incineration of wood into charcoal while demanding the full attention of the sleepless *carbonai* against unpredictable weather fluxes such as strong winds and torrential rains that can extinguish the fire. For brief favorable moments in his infernal task, the *carbonaio* and his peers retreat to a nearby primitive hut to prepare a meal from the food kit inside their knapsacks. Recurring contents of fresh eggs, cured pork, cheese, and dried pasta comprised what would become the standard ingredients of an authentic *Carbonara* recipe. Because the cheese thickens the eggs into a velvety sauce, never bastardize the *Carbonara*, not even with a single drop of cream! Otherwise, doing so just raises eyebrows of disapproval towards pretensions and complete disrespect over the only solace the charcoal maker finds in his restless predicament.

Ingredients

4 ounces/120 grams finely chopped guanciale OR pancetta

OPTIONAL: 1 1/2 tablespoons/15 grams finely chopped garlic

OPTIONAL: 3 tablespoons/45 mL olive oil

OPTIONAL: 1/2 teaspoon/1 gram hot red pepper flakes

2 extra-large eggs OR 3 large eggs

1/3 cup/40 grams freshly grated Pecorino Romano OR Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Salt

1 pound/500 grams spaghetti

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Specific Equipment

Medium-sized saucepan

Medium-sized mixing bowl

Wire whisk

Deep-bottomed stockpot

Colander or colander

Large mixing forks to toss the spaghetti

Serves 4

Instructions

1. Place the guanciale or pancetta in a saucepan and set the saucepan over low heat for 5 minutes or until fat starts to render out. Stir in the garlic, olive oil, and hot pepper flakes, if desired, and continue cooking under low heat 7 to 10 minutes or until all fat has rendered out and gunaciale or pancetta has browned. Set aside in a warm place.

2. Beat the eggs lightly in a mixing bowl with a wire whisk. Whisk in the Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese until well-blended and mixture reaches a thick and creamy consistency.

3. Cook the spaghetti in a stockpot of boiling salted water until al dente or almost but not quite tender. Drain the spaghetti in a colander. Transfer the spaghetti to a serving bowl.

4. Reheat the guanciale or pancetta for 2 to 3 minutes over medium heat. Remove the saucepan from heat and spoon its entire contents over the spaghetti quickly and toss altogether lightly.

5. Pour in the egg-cheese mixture immediately and continue tossing. At this point, the sauce must remain creamy in appearance.

6. Season generously with freshly ground black pepper and toss the spaghetti again until the guanciale or pancetta sauce, the egg-cheese mixture, and the freshly ground black pepper have completely incorporated into the spaghetti.