SCOTCH WOODCOCK

SOURCE: JANE GRIGSON. THE OBSERVER GUIDE TO BRITISH COOKERY.

Inspired by the jocularity and connection of Welsh Rabbit (or Rarebit) to bunnies a century earlier, Victorians coined creamy scrambled eggs sitting over warm anchovy toast “Scotch Woodcock” to showcase their love of savory courses. The choice of words takes a judgmental and oxymoronic potshot towards the Scots, who supposedly pinched pennies, and the lavish price the small woodland game bird fetches at the market.

Ingredients

1 1/2 ounces/42 grams salted or soaked anchovies, boned

3/4 cup/170 grams unsalted butter

6 slices white bread, preferably homemade, with a thickness of 3/4 inch/1.9 cm for each slice, crusts removed

4 large egg yolks

1 1/4 cup/300 mL heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Cayenne pepper

Finely chopped parsley for garnish

Specific Equipment

Mortar and pestle

Electrical toaster

Knife spreader

Small bowl

Wire whisk

Small nonstick pan or skillet

Rubber spatula OR wooden spoon

Serves 6

Instructions

1. Mash the anchovies with 1/2 cup/113 grams butter until the mixture makes a fine smooth paste.

2. Toast the bread in an electrical toaster for 3 to 4 minutes or until the bread has turned golden brown. Remove the bread from the electrical toaster and spread over the anchovy butter with a knife spreader, completely covering the bread. Place the toasted bread slices on a serving plate and set aside in a warm place.

3. Beat the egg yolks and cream in a small bowl with a wire whisk until well-blended. Season lightly with salt, pepper, and cayenne.

4. Melt 1/4 cup/57 grams butter in a small pan or skillet over moderate low heat. Pour over the egg and cream mixture and stir constantly with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon for 2 to 3 minutes or until the eggs have thickened to the consistency of a sauce. Do not let the egg and cream mixture curdle. Remove the pan or skillet from heat.

5. Pour the eggs equally over the toasted bread and sprinkle with parsley for garnish.