SALMON BUGLAMA
SOURCE: DARRA GOLDSTEIN. THE GEORGIAN FEAST: THE VIBRANT CULTURE AND SAVORY FOOD OF THE REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA.
Serious pescatarians may find the lack of excitement and diversity in Georgian fish cookery baffling since the Black and Caspian Seas flank the opposite sides of the republic after all. Adding geographical irony to the gastronomic puzzle is the sharp contrast of the country with adjacent Turkey magnificently displaying its culinary expertise towards the bountiful harvest from the sea. The deep roots of this paradox are malaria outbreaks in communities living closely to freshwater spawning pens of mosquitoes and fear of abduction and human trafficking by Turkish slave traders in the past. That is not to say, however, that Georgian cooks are inept of preparing fish compared to their Mediterranean colleagues. Rather, the limited and mundane arsenal of methods is a long-term fruit of traumatic historical conditioning and stagnancy. For instance, the buglama of fish would not have been distinctly Georgian if not for the abundance of cilantro, as stewing of oil-rich chunks, like salmon or sturgeon, in a clay pot of vegetables, onions, and herbs is also a practice in Turkey, Armenia, and Azerbaijan.
Ingredients
3/4 cup/180 mL vegetable oil
2 pounds/900 grams salmon, skinned and cut into 1 1/2-inch/4-cm pieces from the thick end of the fillet
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup/60 grams cilantro, coarsely chopped
2 medium onions, sliced and separated into rings
2 small lemons, thinly sliced into rounds
4 bay leaves, preferably Greek OR Turkish variety
1 1/2 pounds/680 grams ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced into rounds
OPTIONAL: Finely chopped cilantro leaves for garnish
Specific Equipment
Deep clay pot large enough to hold the fish in a single layer
Serves 4
Instructions
1. Pour 1/4 cup/60 mL of the vegetable oil into the clay pot and swirl it to cover the bottom of the pan.
2. Arrange the chunks of salmon over the oil making sure they make a single layer. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Top the fish with a layer of chopped cilantro, followed by a layer of onions, and finally, a layer of sliced lemons. Place bay leaves above and drizzle with another 1/4 cup/60 mL of the vegetable oil.
4. Lay the sliced tomatoes over and pour the remaining 1/4 cup/60 mL of the vegetable oil. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Cover the clay pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer for 15 minutes or until the fish is done.
6. Transfer the contents of the clay pot to a serving platter by alternately arranging the tomatoes and lemon slices and placing the onions and salmon over. Decorate with chopped cilantro leaves, if desired.
