RABAS (CANTABRIAN FRIED SQUID) — The Kitchen Scholar

SOURCE: ALEXANDRA RAIJ, EDER MONTERO, AND REBECCA FLINT MARX. THE BASQUE BOOK: A LOVE LETTER IN RECIPES FROM THE KITCHEN OF TXIKITO.

Sunday afternoons in Cantabria are best spent on a treasure hunt for the finest squid fritters among local *pintxo* bars. To keep the spirit of competition alive and interesting, bar cooks would unlock their personal recipes, ranging from the frying batter to the species of the mollusk to the shape of the squid cuts. Regardless of the permutations afforded by the imagination, a stunning serving of *Rabas* rests on the freshness of the catch, which should give a sweet tenderness and a pristine essence of the sea upon the very first bite.

Ingredients

1 3/4 pounds/790 grams medium squid

2 cups/250 grams flour

1 tablespoon/12 grams baking powder

1/2 teaspoon/3 grams sea salt

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 1/2 cups/360 mL ice-cold sparkling water OR club soda

Olive oil for deep-frying

1/2 cup/78 grams rice flour

Specific Equipment

Sharp knife

2 large mixing bowls

Wire whisk

Deep-bottomed pan or skillet

OPTIONAL: Thermometer

Long chopsticks

Slotted spoon

Colander lined with paper towels

Serves 6

Instructions

1. Rinse and pat the squid dry. Place each squid body on a flat surface and pull out the tentacles from the rest of the body. Slice off the tentacles just below the eye with a sharp knife and set the tentacles aside. Squeeze out the small round marble-like beak and discard the beak. Remove and discard the entrails from the body of the squid. Peel off the thin purple membrane and discard the skin. Rinse the inside thoroughly with water and drain completely.

2. Pull off the wings near the base of each squid body gently and score them lightly with a diagonal diamond pattern. Cut each squid body crosswise into 1/2-inch/1.27-cm wide rings, or snip each body open lengthwise, score lightly with a diagonal diamond pattern, and cut into 1-inch/2.54-cm to 2-inch/5.0-cm squares. Cover and chill the squid inside the refrigerator.

3. Stir the flour, baking powder, and salt altogether in a large mixing bowl with a wire whisk until well-blended. Make a well in the center and pour the egg into the well. Whisk in the sparkling water or club soda gradually until the mixture is well-blended and has the consistency of a pancake batter. Relax the batter for 15 to 20 minutes. The batter must be prepared not more than 30 to 40 minutes before frying.

4. Heat the oil in a deep-bottomed pan or skillet over medium-high heat or until the temperature has reached to 365°F/185°C.

5. Toss the squid with rice flour in another large mixing bowl until the squid is evenly coated. Dredge out any excess rice flour.

6. Dip each piece of squid into the batter, and gently slip them into oil. Fry the pieces in batches for 2 minutes, turning them once halfway with long chopsticks, or until the coating has turned golden brown. Remove the squid from the pan or the skillet with a slotted spoon and drain them over a colander lined with paper towels. Repeat with any remaining squid until all batches are cooked. Transfer the squid pieces to a small serving platter or cazuela before serving.