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PENNE DELL' ORTOLANO (UMBRIAN GREENGROCER-STYLE PENNE)

PENNE DELL' ORTOLANO (UMBRIAN GREENGROCER-STYLE PENNE)

SOURCE: GIULIANO BUGIALLI. GIULIANO BUGIALLI’S CLASSIC TECHNIQUES OF ITALIAN COOKING.

For a mountainous region lavished with reddish-brown mineral deposits of iron and manganese oxide pigments that darkly shaded the chiaroscuro paintings of Caravaggio and Rembrandt, Umbria has displaced its umber-quarrying etymology to a distant memo…

For a mountainous region lavished with reddish-brown mineral deposits of iron and manganese oxide pigments that darkly shaded the chiaroscuro paintings of Caravaggio and Rembrandt, Umbria has displaced its umber-quarrying etymology to a distant memory. The modern title, “The Green Heart of Italy”, directly refers to a line from The Head-waters of Clitumnus by 1906 Nobel Prize honoree Giosuè Carducci. Enter the ortolano or the greengrocer, who perpetuates Umbria’s poetic designation with an environmentally sustainable idea for his unsold fresh produce. His task is pretty simple- just transform his mix of leftover aromatic vegetables and herbs into a consummate and satisfying battuto pasta sauce. 

Ingredients

1 pound/500 grams carrots, peeled

Salt to taste

2 cups/110 grams finely chopped red onions

2/3 cup/70 grams finely chopped celery

1 tablespoon/9 grams finely chopped garlic

1 1/2 tablespoon/6 grams finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, preferably picked fresh on the same day for best results

1 pound/500 grams penne

1/2 cup/120 grams unsalted butter

1/3 cup/80 mL olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

OPTIONAL:4 to 6 tablespoons/25 to 40 grams freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Specific Equipment

Medium-sized pot

Mixing bowl

Deep-bottomed stockpot

Colander

Deep-bottomed saucepan

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

1. Soak the carrots in cold water for 30 minutes.

2. Fill the medium-sized pot with water and bring to a boil. Stir in the salt and drop in the carrots. Boil the carrots for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the carrots from the pot and coarsely chop the carrots into bite-sized pieces. Set the carrots aside to cool.

3. Combine the chopped red onions, celery, garlic, and parsley in a mixing bowl until well-blended. Drain the penne in the colander.

4. Cook the penne in a stockpot of boiling salted water until al dente or almost but not quite tender.

5. Place the butter and oil in a deep-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Sauté in the carrots for 2 minutes. Stir in the mixture of onions, celery, garlic, and parsley and cook for 1 minute.

6. Toss in the drained penne and season generously with salt and pepper to taste. Continue tossing the pasta over medium heat for 2 minutes. Remove the saucepan from heat and transfer the pasta to a serving platter. Sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, if desired.

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