PARMESAN CREAM SOUP WITH PEAS L'AMI JEAN
SOURCE: JANE SIGAL. BISTRONOMY: RECIPES FROM THE BEST NEW PARIS BISTROS.
Bistronomic chefs refuse to bow down to the mental and emotional agony imposed by Michelin and Gault-Millau rating systems. Instead, Le Fooding was the sole restaurant doctrine that mattered to antiestablishmentarian bistrotiers like Stéphane Jégo, and the guide reciprocated the support by giving any provocateur chef recognition within the underground French food radar. Stéphane, who belongs to the second bistronomic wave, purchased L’Ami Jean after a twelve-year culinary stint under Yves Camdeborde and a serious traffic accident that broke his leg. Even when he reportedly dragged a Michelin inspector out of his gastropub, the brilliant Breton chef always had the unwavering admiration of the general public, his cooking colleagues, and protégés. In addition to his self-deprecating demeanor, part of the Jégo mystique can possibly be attributed to how he struck gold with his liquefied version of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, a highly versatile and irresistible savory cream base that could either function as a sauce or an emphatic soup broth.
Ingredients
2 ounces/57 grams lardons, cut crosswise at a thickness of 1/4 inch/0.63 cm
1/2 cup/34 grams day-old white bread, preferably homemade, removed of their crust and diced to a thickness of 1/4 inch/0.63 cm
Salt to taste
1/4 cup/35 grams frozen green peas, thawed
2 tablespoons/28 grams unsalted butter
3/4 cup/110 grams finely chopped shallots
1 1/2 cups/150 grams grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
2 cups/480 mL heavy cream
1 cup/240 mL chicken stock, preferably homemade
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup/50 grams shaved Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
Chopped chives OR scallions for garnish
Chopped leeks, soaked in iced water for 10 minutes, for garnish
Specific Equipment
Medium skillet OR sauté pan
Slotted spoon
Paper towels
Small saucepan
Strainer
Medium saucepan
Blender OR food processor
Large pitcher
Serves 4
Instructions
1. Set a medium skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat and sauté in the bacon for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the bacon has browned lightly. Remove the bacon from the skillet or sauté pan with slotted spoon and drain them over paper towels.
2. Sauté the pieces of bread in the same skillet or sauté pan for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the bread has toasted to a golden crisp. Season lightly with salt and remove the skillet from heat. Set the skillet aside to cool the bread.
3. Bring the water in a small saucepan to a boil. Blanch in the peas for 1 to 3 minutes or until they are tender. Drain the peas over a strainer and rinse them with cold water. Drain the peas again thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels.
4. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Sauté in the shallots for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the shallots have softened. Season lightly with salt. Stir in the grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for 2 to 3 minutes or until the cheese has completely melted to a mass.
5. Pour in the cream and chicken stock and bring to a simmer, scraping off any cheese that has stuck at the bottom of the saucepan. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer the soup, partially covered, for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until set. Season with pepper.
6. Pour the soup into a blender or food processor and purée until the soup is well-blended and smooth. Pour the soup into a large pitcher and set aside.
7. Spoon the shaved Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, bacon, peas and bread pieces equally into individual soup bowls. Sprinkle with the chives or scalions and leeks. Pour the soup equally over each bowl and serve.
