The Kitchen Scholar explores the world of food and cooking beyond the levels of nourishment and sensory pleasure by intersecting with different stories that range from personal narratives to third-party perspectives in different academic fields and by promoting the legacy of culinary traditions and cookbook authors.

DUCK À L’ESPAGNOLE (DUCK BREAST WITH ORANGES AND GREEN OLIVES)

DUCK À L’ESPAGNOLE (DUCK BREAST WITH ORANGES AND GREEN OLIVES)

SOURCE: GERALD HIRIGOYEN. PINTXOS: SMALL PLATES IN THE BASQUE TRADITION.

Modern pintxos, particularly those classified under cocina en miniatura, have undergone a more sophisticated polish by adapting the cooking styles and movements of other countries outside of Spain and injecting personal enhancements that bring forth a sense of Basque touch. This duck recipe by Gerald Hirigoyen of Piperade in San Francisco, California takes a page from the French classic Caneton á l'Orange and adds slivers of green Manzanilla olives for a briny and nutty curveball on the sauce and a distinct expression of Spanish identity.

Ingredients

2 large navel oranges

1 tablespoon/15 mL Grand Marnier

3 tablespoons and 1 teaspoon/50 mL sherry vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons/32 grams sugar

3 tablespoons/45 mL brown chicken stock, preferably homemade

6 to 8 pitted Manzanilla olives, sliced into slivers lengthwise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 Muscovy OR Long Island duck breasts, each weighing about 1/2 pound/227 grams OR 1 large duck breast, weighing about 1 pound/454 grams

2 tablespoons/30 grams unsalted butter

Specific Equipment

Peeler

Sharp knife

Juicer

2 small saucepans

Cutting board

Small bowl

Spatula

Strainer or sieve

Griddle OR large cast-iron skillet

Torn

Serves 4 to 6

Instructions

1. Peel the zest from one orange in 2-inch/5-cm strips. Cut the strips of orange zest to julienne sizes with a width of 0.13 inch/0.32-cm and set aside. Slice the peeled orange in half and juice both halves into a small saucepan.

2. Slice off the top and bottom of the other orange, exposing the flesh. Place the orange upright on a cutting board and slice off the peel, following the contour of the orange and discarding the white pith. Cut along both sides of each segment to free the orange flesh from membrane. Set the orange segments aside in a small bowl. Squeeze out the remaining juices from the orange membrane into the same small saucepan.

3. Bring the orange juice to a boil over high heat. Stir in the Grand Marnier, 3 tablespoons/45 mL sherry vinegar, and sugar and let the liquid simmer, stirring occasionally with a spatula, for 1 to 2 minutes or until the sugar dissolves.

4. Raise the heat to medium-high and boil for 3 minutes or until the liquid has reduced to half its volume. Pour in the stock and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until the liquid has reduced to half its volume and has thickened to the consistency of a syrup. Stir in the olives and season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Remove the saucepan from heat and set the sauce aside.

5. Bring the water in another small saucepan to a boil and blanch in the orange zest for 1 minute. Drain the zest through a strainer or sieve and rinse with cold water. Set aside.

6. Score the skin of the duck in a 0.5-inch/1.27-cm crosshatch pattern, taking care not to cut through the flesh. Heat the griddle over medium-high heat until smoking hot. Sear in the duck, skin side down, for 4 minutes, basting occasionally with the duck fat, or until the skin has turned golden. Turn the duck over with tongs and sear for another 4 minutes, basting occasionally, or until the flesh has browned. Turn the duck over one last time and sear for 2 minutes. Transfer the duck to a cutting board and let the duck rest its juices on a cutting board for 5 minutes.

7. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer for 1 to 2 minutes over low heat. Swirl in the butter until melted. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, adjusting them according to taste, and stir in 1 teaspoon/5 mL sherry vinegar and orange segments. Cook the sauce for 1 minute or until the orange segments are evenly coated

8. Cut the duck into thin slices with a width of 0.75-inch/1.89-cm. Lay the slices over a serving platter, spreading them to an arrangement of a fan. Spoon over the sauce and spread the orange segments, olives, and orange zest around the duck.

PAJEON SAUCE

PAJEON SAUCE

GILDAS

GILDAS