CHẠO TÔM (GRILLED SHRIMP MOUSSELINE ON SUGAR CANE SKEWERS)
SOURCE: JACKI PASSMORE. ASIA, THE BEAUTIFUL COOKBOOK: AUTHENTIC RECIPES FROM THE REGIONS OF ASIA.
Emperor Tự Đức of the Nguyễn Dynasty notoriously had a whimsical diet and demanded he be served with meals that are remotely different from those eaten by commoners. There was one bottleneck, though. The imperial capital of Huế lacked the variety of agricultural and aquatic resources in appeasing the constant cravings of its most powerful resident. To circumvent this deficiency, cuisine refinement required a heavy injection of creativity from the kitchen staff, lest they faced capital punishment for insubordination. For instance, chewable sticks of sugar cane shoots replaced the bland and woody bamboo stems to create a skewered illusion, while simultaneously providing a delightfully sweet afterthought to the smooth wrapped layer of shrimp mousseline and salty nuớc mắm and peanut sauce. Nowadays, the esoterica of Chạo Tôm has long escaped the clutches of the defunct Vietnamese aristocracy and its national ubiquity throughout has become a blessing for the everyone to enjoy.
Ingredients
6 fresh sugar cane sticks, preferably the chewing variety, cut to a length of 9 inches/23 cm each
1 1/4 pounds/600 grams peeled and deveined shrimps
1 tablespoon/15 mL fish sauce, preferably nuớc mắm
2 small egg whites OR 1 large egg white, well beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Iced water
Vegetable oil, for brushing
2 to 3 tablespoons/12 to 20 grams finely chopped scallions or chives
Peanut Sauce Dip
OPTIONAL: 1 1/2 tablespoons/23 mL sugar cane juice
1 tablespoon/12 grams brown sugar
2 tablespoons/30 mL fish sauce, preferably nuớc mắm
1 1/2 teaspoons/3 grams finely chopped garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons/3 grams finely chopped red chili peppers, preferably bird’s eye chili
1 tablespoon/9 grams crushed roasted peanuts
Specific Equipment
Sharp knife OR cleaver
Food processor or blender
Brush
Charcoal
Small mixing bowl
Serves 4
Instructions
1. Peel off the hard outer skin from the sugar cane sticks with a sharp knife or cleaver.
2. Combine the shrimp, fish sauce, egg whites, salt, and pepper in a food processor or blender and pulse altogether into a smooth and well-blended paste. Sprinkle with 1 to 2 tablespoons/15 to 30 mL iced water and pulse again until the volume has increased and the texture becomes smoother.
3. Wet hands and divide the shrimp paste equally by molding a thin layer around the center of the sugar cane stick, leaving the two ends exposed. Brush the shrimp paste layer lightly with vegetable oil and coat lightly with chopped scallions or chives.
4. Heating the charcoal until glowing hot. Grill the sugar cane sticks over, turning frequently until the shrimp paste feels firm to the touch and have turned brown. Brush with cooking oil, if necessary. Arrange the sugar cane sticks in a serving platter lined with folded paper napkins.
5. Combine sugar cane juice, brown sugar, fish sauce, garlic, chile peppers, and roasted peanuts in a mixing bowl until well-blended. Divide the sauce in equal portions among small dishes.
